Asia (12/26/06-1/30/07)

Itinerary: LA/Asia/LA (12/15/06-2/6/07)
12/15/06-12/25/06: LA
12/26-1/9/07: Taiwan (Taipei)
1/9/07-1/10/07: Thailand (Bangkok)
1/10/07-1/18/07: Thailand Islands/Beaches (Ko Samui, Ko Phagnan, Phuket, Krabi-Railey, Ko Phi Phi)
1/18/07-1/22/07: Thailand (Bangkok)
1/22/07-1/25/07: Singapore
1/25/07-1/26/07: Thailand (Bangkok)
1/26/07-1/30/07: Hong Kong
1/30/07-2/6/07: LA


12/26/06-12/28/06 (Flight to Asia)
The travel to Taipei from LAX was painfully long. First, the flight was delayed 3 hours, due to a recent 7.1 earthquake south of Kaoshung, which damaged power and cable cords throughout the region, and the computer system at China Airlines’ home base in Taipei had just gone down. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2006_Hengchun_earthquake) However, after waiting an hour or so in vain for the computers to go back up, the management was pretty resourceful and they proceeded to hand-write our boarding passes and got us in the air. Next, the flight itself took 17 hours, with a stopover in Anchorage.

During the flight, I flipped through the duty-free shopping guide, which included special-edition China Airlines dolls. Two of the four dolls had brown hair, one was blonde and one was a redhead. Below the row of four dolls were pictures of 4 real life stewardesses… all Asian girls with black hair, just like all the stewardesses on board.

12/28/06-1/9/07 (Taipei, Taiwan)
12 days in Taiwan opened my eyes to new experiences, and provided a bit of a homecoming. It was my 5th time in Taiwan, but had been about 10 years since my last visit. The first trip, I was too young to remember. The second trip, I cried at the airport saying goodbye to my relatives. The 3rd and 4th trips were the years after high school; the last couple of trips were not so pleasant for several reasons: I grew tired of feeling like I was being shipped from relative to relative (my mom is Taiwanese and is the youngest of nine sisters… so there are MANY), and being taken on tourist excursions that I didn’t have that much of an interest in. I felt disconnected with my relatives from a cultural standpoint. And lastly I got very very ill on my last trip there, and was bed-ridden for most the stay. All these factors combined killed any desire to go back.

Jerry Lin, my second grade best buddy… and worst enemy (we had a pretty major sandbox battle in 3rd grade), moved to Taipei during the summer of ’04, several months before I moved to NYC. He had told me I was one of very few friends that had supported his decision to move, and his courage to move inspired me to make mine. For the past 2+ years, Jerry had been quite adamant about me visiting Taiwan… how wonderful life was out there, how much he wanted me to see and experience it on my own terms, and how important and empowering it was to connect with your roots…

I arrived early Thursday morning, and was picked up by my cousin and her husband.
And we went to say hello to my uncle and aunt (#2 or 9)… and my cousin-in-law, his friend and I headed to the natural spring baths up in the mountains. It was so beautiful… various warm-hot temperature baths in a stunning lush mountainside setting filled with clouds.

The two weeks (and new years) went by in a blur – and too much detail to recapture now… (crazy nights at bars/clubs, shopping around, night markets, museums, 101, hanging with the relatives/dinners, salsa lesson/club, house parties, and food food food!) Basically, I was very surprised by Taiwan... I had such a blast, and since then, have been telling everyone to visit there - I feel that it’s overlooked these days by westerners traveling to Asia. Impressively modern Taipei metropolis, beautiful nature, friendly and affordable, and the food – I can’t stop thinking about it… from the fresh live seafood, to street stands, small diner dishes to dumplings, shabu shabu, luscious tropical fruits and fresh bakeries – Taipei is one of my favorite places in the world for food.

I decided to extend my stay in Taiwan an extra day… and then added 5 days to my trip, so that I could have more time in the Thailand islands, and also squeeze in a trip to Singapore to visit another friend before heading to Hong Kong.

I met a lot of wonderful people in Taipei, and I look forward to going back.

1/9/07 Tues, I arrived into Bangkok on Tuesday afternoon (1/9) – took a cab to Amarin Plaza, a shopping mall in Chit Lom, where my friend Luke Cassidy-Dorian teaches yoga. We went back to his place to drop off my luggage and chill out for a bit… then headed back to Amarin Plaza, where I took both of Luke’s classes - hot yoga and vinyasa yoga – an exhausting double header, especially since I had only worked out once in the last 2 weeks. Afterwards, we went to dinner with Santi, Luke’s friend and yoga student and a friendly Thai fashion designer. Luke and I then headed back to his place, where I finished making the last of my travel arrangements (to Ko Samui and Singapore), and catch a few hours of zzz’s before my 6am flight to Ko Samui, an island in the southern Thailand gulf.

Arrived in Ko Samui at 7am. Headed immediately to the pier and took a 30 minutes boat ride heading north to the less developed island of Ko Phagnan, famous for its full moon parties, where over 35,000 people go crazy on the southeast beach of Hat Rin. The next evening was scheduled for the half-moon party, where 1,000+ revelers take over a section of the jungle in from the south central coast of Ban Tai.

As I was walking down the dock… I walked up to this guy and said hello… his name was Aaron, he had an English/American accent, which sounded Australian – originally from outside London, grew up in Santa Barbara, last 4 years in LA, 22 y/o actor on some Disney channel show that I haven’t seen. We both seemed completely open to whatever adventures lay ahead.

We decided to pass on the Sawngthaews waiting at the pier (pick-up trucks with two rows of bench seats)… and opted to grab lunch first and contemplated getting a motorbike instead. I suggested we head straight across the island to Ban Chalok Lam and then boat over from there to Hat Khuat (Bottle Beach). We mulled over whether we could both fit on the small motorbike with our luggage (his large back pack, my even larger duffle-stroller and my laptop backpack – which I regretted bringing at the time, but am now glad that I did as I write this from a wireless internet cafe) … I mentioned to Aaron that my friend Jerry had once seen a family of 5 fit onto a motorbike in Taipei (the parents, 2 children and a baby).

As it turns out, the hole in the wall restaurant where we were eating our noodle soup also rented out motorbikes. Now we just had to learn how to ride one. Aaron took it for a test spin up and down the block, and then we were off, ‘Motorcycle Diaries’ style.

It was a sweet ride up to Ban Chalok Lam.

We played around on Ban Chalok Lam beach, trying to climb a nearby coconut tree, then trying to pick a coconut with a long stick – but we were beat. As we went to inquire about the boat to Hat Khuat (Bottle Beach), a storm was setting in… and we were told that no boats would be leaving until after the storm. So we decided to just head to Hat Khom instead, which was somewhere in the middle.

As we headed up a very, very steep hill on the motorbike, I sustained the first of my several injuries… we were losing momentum and begun to swerve to the left of the road… and almost dropped into the concrete ditch on the left, but we were able to recover but then quickly begun to swerve to the right of the road… and I was flung several feet off the bike into the ditch as Aaron crashed into the concrete ditch. I was lucky to have backpacks on either side of my body… and walked away with only bloody scratches on my right elbow and arm. Since we were both ok… our attention then turned to the bike… it wouldn’t start! We walked it up the rest of the hill… where I found a rest stop to clean my wounds, and as I returned to the bike, Aaron was able to rev the engine. We felt very fortunate and discussed how we shouldn’t continue to press our luck. Most accidents happen over a split second. We were given at least 10 seconds and 2 warnings. Nevertheless, we agreed that we’d laugh over our stupidity for years to come. We left the bike at the top of the hill, and proceed to hike a clunky dirt path to Hat Khom.

It was a quaint beautiful stretch of beach, and we decided on a place, sharing a room for 200 baht (so about $5.70 US, or $2.85 each). After eating more delicious noodle soup, pad thai, curry, and a beer, we swam in the sea, and took naps on hammocks.

By mid-afternoon, we began our hike around the cliffs, in an attempt to make it to Hat Khuat (Bottle Beach). There was a man about 40 meters in front of us. But 5 minutes into the hike, he turned around, and as we crossed paths, he said that it was a dead end… right around the first bend was a flat slope that was too steep and dangerous to climb. Aaron and I surveyed the slope a bit… we both made it up… and thought that it wasn’t too hard. The terrain only got more treacherous over the next 90-minute hike out.
We finally hit a point where we could not cross – and just as the sun was beginning to set fast. On our way back, a HUGE lizard darted across us into the ocean. It was as large as a kimono dragon, so it scared the shit out of us. At one point, Aaron went down the rocks and I went up the rocks. As I was traversing the boulder, the rocks below my feet gave way, and I slip a couple of feet down. I just remember quickly thinking it doesn’t matter how badly I’m getting cut up on my left side… just grab onto something. Luckily, I managed to get through that segment with just several cuts and scratches, and just one gash on my arm that will probably scar. I saw another lizard lying the in grass at one point, but as I moved to photograph it, it darted away.

We were exhausted (or at least I was), and it was getting dark, so we cut up the hills the first chance we got to find a path.. and eventually made out way back to the bungalow as it became night.


1/18/07-1/22/07: Thailand (Bangkok)
It was fun zipping around town on small motor-taxi scooters. The public transport was also clean and impressive.

I enjoyed a daily yoga routine at Amarin Plaza – my first real foray into the Ashtanga primary series. I also got my first colon cleansing there. Luke took me around to eat at wonderful vegetarian places all around town. I spent a little bit of time checking out tourist sites, but nightlife was spent at local non-tourist location – bars and a cool massage parlor. Checked out the massive local sauna Babylon a couple of times – had a relaxing time drinking watermelon smoothies by the pool. Shopped around the overwhelming weekend market, more manageable night market and around the cluster of major malls. I left Thailand with a pretty packed suitcase.

1/22/07-1/25/07: Singapore
Monday night, Nigel picked me up at the airport and we just hung out at the house – watched a bootleg copy of Dreamgirls I picked up in Bangkok.
Tuesday – headed to Singapore Zoo, argue-ably the best zoo in the world. I was impressed. It was great seeing so many exotic animals not behind bars. There were informational little signs everywhere that were easy and fun to read. Some highlights were feeding the kangaroos, seeing 3 white tigers, and watching a tribe of baboons go about their day. Tuesday night went do dining area where there were a lot of ex pats, but we ate a Singapore-styled food court. I watched a Korean “seasons” movie that was very moving.
Wednesday – walked to botanical gardens, saw the largest orchid collection in the world – then took bus to the Singapore national museum – learned about the short history of Singapore – there were two paths to take… one told from a historical point of view and one from an anecdotal point of view… I jumped between paths until finally at the end the two paths combined into one. I felt that both paths were equally thorough and gave me a good sense of the history. Afterwards, I walked across the river to downtown and Chinatown, then back up to Orchid street… and bought a pair of shorts at topman… then back to Nigel’s. After a short break, we head off to the night safari. It was cool riding around in a tram to see the animals… all the lighting was made to look like moonlight… which was a bit scary, but added to the excitement. Then there were several 20 min walking paths one could take. I walked through cages where flying squirrels flew right over my head… and also can inches away from 1.5 ft long fruit bats.


1/25/07-1/26/07: Thailand (Bangkok)
Left Singapore Thursday morning back to Bangkok. Went shopping around Siam, then to Luke’s yoga class. Afterwards, ate at Siam paragon mall and watch the movie Perfume. I had wanted to watch the opening trailers, which included a tribute segment to the Thai King, in which everyone had to stand. The footage was a bit random… jumping between sequences of the king, and of smiling, happy Thais, and a few sequences with deities. Friday morning, took a led mysore yoga class taught by Jaime. Then had a veggie lunch with Luke before heading off to airport.


1/26/07-1/30/07: Hong Kong
Friday night – hot pot, different HK style with Doug, Michelle, Doug, Kwokzoo… Jerry arrived.
Went out to a couple of bar/clubs… got really, really drunk on whiskey and lychee martinis.
Saturday – went to eat dim sum at Causeway bay area. Jerry and I walked around this young-Shibuya-like area. Then we headed over to Kowloon and walked up Nathan road. It was basically a trek constantly searching for bathrooms, since we were drinking a lot of water. Doug picked us up from Central area… we then headed out to a benefit dinner/party for support of Hong Kong independent film… drank lots of wine and chatted with random international peeps/ex-pats. Then went to a few clubs afterwards after midnight. On way back to Doug Woo’s place, Doug Woodring called and offered to take me out to Propaganda… so headed out with him. Not much of a club, but was glad to have checked it out.
Sunday – Doug, Jerry and I headed out to Psy Cone area (NE of Hong Kong Island) and hiked up and over a mountain to get to Tai (Big Wave Beach)… beautiful semi-secluded beach… tried my hand at surfing, but couldn’t handle the aggressive waves on the tiny surfboard, and I was freezing my balls off. Afterward, we met up with Maya and had a fresh seafood feast… then dropped Jerry off at Central to head back to Taipei.

Monday – Had breakfast with Doug Woodring at Yacht club… then I walked over to central, checked out Central/IFC and surrounding streets/piers… Doug then met up again, and we headed off to Peng Chau… like an old fashioned Chinese fishing village…walked up to the highest point there- beautiful sunset and views of Hong Kong Island, Lantau, HK Disney, etc etc. We then headed to Temple street where I bought a few souvenirs and Doug got a tarot card reading. Then met up with Doug Woo and had a Shanghai styled dinner. The next morning, both Dougs and I got up at 7am to go running up to Victoria peak. It was a fantastically steep job. Later Doug Woodring and I grabbed some dim sum and then I headed off to Central, checked in my luggage… walked around the IFC mall a bit, and headed to the airport back to LA.

ASIA PHOTO LINK