Romania and West Middle East (11/15/07-11/28/07)

Itinerary: Romania and West Middle East (11/15/07-11/28/07)
11/16/07-11/18/07: Romania (Bucharest-Sinaia-Bucharest)
11/19/07: Israel (Tel Aviv)
11/20/07-11/21/07: Jordan (Petra)
11/21/07-11/22/07: Egypt-Sinai (Ras Shaitan)
11/22/07-11/27/07: Israel (Eilat-Jerusalem-Tel Aviv-Ein Gedi-Jerusalem)
11/27/07-11/28/07: Romania (Bucharest)


11/16/07 I arrived into Bucharest Friday morning and jumped onto the bus headed toward the city center. Several stops into the ride, an officer came on board checking tickets, and an older man across from me had not stamped his ticket, as we were all personally required to do upon boarding. His pleas were in vain as he was written up a citation (In US dollars, $30 penalty for not stamping the $2 tix). I heard later on that others had experienced the same strict enforcement of this rule. I got out at the Victoria Plaza stop, and took a cab to the hostel. As I was checking in, this guy named Eduardo came in minutes later - he was from Dallas, in college in Illinois, and currently studying abroad in Barcelona. We decided to venture out together - starting out at the Military museum down the street, then up toward the peasant museum. We weren’t certain which one it was, so we just decided to walk around the park across the street, and then up to the Arc de triumph, then the Village museum. It was a gorgeous sunny day, and I took many beautiful pictures of the colorful fall trees and their reflection along the lake. We then slowly made our way down to the old city centre, taking a whole bunch of pictures along the way. After walking around some more, we got coffee, and found ourselves on a path toward the National Palace (the 2nd largest building in the world next to the pentagon). We then made our way back to the hostel, and hung out there for the rest of the evening.

11/17/07 Sat – Eduardo and I took an early morning train up to Sinaia – the train was packed and many people had to stand. As we approached the mountains, it was beautiful to see the landscape change from bleak rainy grey to the beginnings of snowfall to full-on snow. We walked around the city centre (which was just a street) in search of tourist information, or even a map. Everything was closed – so we just decided to ask our way around up the mountain toward the monastery, and then Pele’s Castle (which was closed). We decided to head up the funicular to the mountain peak, in search of a few sites that my London friend Ant had told me about – I remembered something about a cross that was carved into the mountainside. When we eventually got to the top, we found ourselves in a middle of a blizzard – we were not going to get anywhere in those conditions, but it was fun to brave the elements for a while - but the fun stopped when the ice melted into our socks and toes. We headed back to Bucharest, bought some groceries and cooked pasta for dinner - I vaguely remember it costing us just a few bucks. After a short nap, we made out way out to the bars/clubs in the city center. The weather was absolutely miserable outside. Started at a sports bar, then an underground packed reggae club, then to a dance club that was unfortunately empty, but the club goers were having a great time dancing around the front stage. There were a couple of young break dancers who seemed to be acquainted with the young cute go-go dancer dancing on a box in the back corner - they all looked under 20.

11/18/07 Sun – Eduardo and I headed to the Romania history museum, and then headed to get coffee around the city center. We parted ways as he prepared to head back to Barcelona, and I made my way back to the National palace for an indoor tour and around to the modern art museum in the left wing. Afterwards, I made my way back to the hostel – met some more backpackers and we ordered some pizza for dinner, and I began my preparations for my trip to Israel. Arrived at the Bucharest airport just over an hour before the flight, which was the beginning of the security fiasco (in short, I was body cavity searched and not allowed to board with any of my personal belongings - and when I arrived into Tel Aviv, my shoes and camera were missing. I was eventually able to reclaim my shoes upon my return to Bucharest, but my camera was gone forever. I was a bit bummed that I lost all my pictures of Bucharest - but thankfully after writing a claim letter to El Al, they agreed to pay for my new camera and the pair of shoes that I bought in Tel Aviv.)

11/19/07 Arrived into Tel Aviv before dawn - and watched sunrise as I walked toward the beach - and checked into a hostel nearby. Then walked around – down a stretch, then went shopping around for new shoes and camera. Food was delicious. The malls were very american-like, except the security screening at every entrance. Britney's new album was blasting at one of the shoe stores.

11/20/07 Overnight bus down to Eilat. Crossed to Petra. Lots of older white tourists, weather was hot and pleasant with occasional gusts of wind that would blow sand everywhere. Election Day in Jordan.

11/21/07 Taxi Ride – Leaving Petra, we dropped this Danish rock climber off at Wadi Rum - the mountains around Wadi Rum were so beautiful, and I'm glad I got to see it, if even just for a few moments - then headed to Aquaba ferry crossing over to Nuweiba in the Sinai-Egypt. Took a taxi ride from Nuweiba Port past Nuweiba City (which looked pitifully dirty and abandoned) to Tarabin. At the entrance, I passed a couple of young Israelis and asked them if they had a place they could recommend to stay, and they told me to follow them to Ras Shaitan. I was a bit hesitant, since I knew it meant heading further north and that I would likely not be able to make it out to Mt. Sinai/St. Catherine’s monastery. But it felt like the right thing to do, and so I decided to let go of the “itinerary.” Once we arrived in Ras Shaitan, I knew that I had made the right choice – for the first time in the journey, I felt at absolute peace. It was the most wonderful evening – having great meaningful conversations. This young Parisian guy who was taking a year off from his Physics study, and had spent the last several months working at a Kibbutz, and this lady from Denmark, who frequented this camp, and was en route back to Cambodia where she was on her latest assignment from UNESCO. I loved hearing her stories of her experiences around Thailand – and how this one rather rude French kid had set off fireworks that accidentally set fire to a young British couple’s hut, burning all their belongings. The young couple reported the incident to the authorities (in order to be able to make an insurance claim), and the kid stubbornly refused to accept responsibility, and was eventually called out and put in jail for 6 months (spending that New Years in jail).

11/22/07 Enjoyed the day in Ras Shaitan, doing so yoga in the morning and snorkeling early afternoon - but spent most the day just lounging around having great conversations and enjoying the views in silence. Towards sunset, I met Andrea - she was also heading back to Tel Aviv that evening so we decided to travel up together. As I was crossing the metal detector at the Taba border crossing, someone bolted by my right side - and I thought he was being chased. It was a bit disorienting because I had a very clear view of the panic in his eyes, and in his body language - tearing through the station as fast as he could in any way possible. Then seconds later, a whole bunch of people came running... along with security guards shouting out in Hebrew. Finally got the message that there was a bomb and I bolted out as well, leaving luggage and passport behind. Turned out to just be a bomb scare. Roughly 45 minutes later, the 'suspicious vehicle' was determined to be bomb free, and we returned into the building to "officially" cross the border.

Andrea and I then went to the gas station to hitchhike (or as they say there 'tram') to Tel Aviv - along with another guy from Ras Rhaitan who was headed to Jerusalem. The last time to catch the last bus a few blocks away came and went... but I was willing to believe in Andrea, and she believed that we could find a ride. I think us another 15-30 minutes, but a lanky nice-looking guy around my age pulled up in a nice car, and offered us a ride to Jerusalem... Andrea and I had intended on going to Tel Aviv, but it had crossed my mind earlier that I would end up in Jerusalem that night, so we decided to go with the ride. It was a beautiful ride - as per 'tram' custom, we didn't talk much... and our demon driver was blasting Elton John as he raced through the full moon lighted Negrev desert. He got us there in just 3.5 hours, crossing through the west bank area.

11/23/07 Andrea and I had a delicious vegetarian lunch at T Mol café. Then I ventured off to the Old City, western wall, where I walked by Jerry Seinfeld on my way out. Andrea was awesome to arrange Shabbat dinner for me - first got to meet of younger folk gathering at one place, then to another locale around the block with an older crowd, with food of a particular vegan diet - I don't remember details, but it all tasted so good. Going around the room, one at a time, people introduced themselves and spoke about what they were grateful for. Some people spoke pretty extensively, and side conversations often sparked, so the process of getting around the table moved very very slowly. Hours later, I headed off to Tel Aviv. I felt a bit rude to leave, but I wanted to meet Ofir in Tel Aviv, and I was ready for some nightlife. Since it was Shabbat, the public transport system was shut down, so I caught a Sheruit (shuttle van) to Tel Aviv - so convenient and just 25 shequels ($6) for the 1 hour ride. The club that I was very excited to check out was closed, so I headed to a bar instead. It was very packed, and I had a blast until the early morning meeting lots of fun people.

11/24/07 Sat – I spent the day walking up the Tel Aviv shoreline – it was a beautiful sunny day, and I watched another beautiful sunset on my way back down. In the evening, I met up with the guy who had sold me shoes earlier that Monday, and we had a good time just wandering and chatting.

11/25/07-11/26/07 – Made my way to Ein Gedi/Dead Sea. Got there around 3PM – met my two hostel mates (a couple of older gay men from SF) and we headed down to the Dead Sea to float around while the sun was still out. It began to set on our way back. Then dinner in the cafeteria, I headed back out again to float in the Dead Sea under the full moon light (this time with a German lady who offered to show me a direct path down to the waters). We enjoyed the beautiful quiet night afterwards and chatted a bit. I probably got a bit ill after that as I had a rough night (didn’t get a full blown fever, but was definitely feeling some sort of nightmare-ish stress throughout the night), and woke up feeling drained. Nevertheless, I decided to make my way to Masada with my two hostel mates. Took the funicular up to conserve energy, and enjoyed a few hours wandering around the fortress alone. It was then time to make my way back to Jerusalem. Arrived in the afternoon and took a cab to the Demascius Gate (entrance to Muslim quarters), where I headed to a hostel recommended by my two hostel mates back in Ein Gedi (and highly recommended by my lonely planet guide as well). I took a short walk around the old city before heading back to the hostel to take a nap. I woke up and met a crazy tough looking hostel mate from Scotland who was really cool. He showed me some stuff he had bought and the bumper stickers he was sticking all over town (I wish I could remember what the message was… some affirmative message about Mother nature) We headed out with this guide guy named Said, who was heavily medicated and an original ‘pan-handler’ that he had met he first arrived into Jerusalem a couple of weeks ago – and he was able to pick me up a fresh brown sack dinner (tomato, cucumber and pita) – and in return asked me to buy him a pack of cigarettes. It was fun watching Said constantly offering his services to everyone around us, and he would often disappear from us for long moments at a time. I enjoyed the quiet quirky evening, and made my way back to the hostel to retire early.

11/27/07 – I woke up early in time for the sunrise, and had a sublime view over the old city from the rooftop terrace of the hostel. I was glad to have taken it easy the day before as I now felt refreshed and able to enjoy my last day in Israel. I had an excellent refreshing breakfast and made my way over to the temple mount, which contained the mosque that housed the rock from which Muhammad ascended into heaven. I then checked out of the hostel and caught the bus line that did a loop around Jerusalem every 2 hours. I was afraid that I had missed the bus, as I was nearly 10 minutes late to the stop and it would be too late to wait for the next one (and still be able to visit the Holocaust museum and make my flight). But I oddly felt that it would all work out, and decided to wait – and the bus arrived 5 minutes later! I left the bus at the Holocaust museum where I had 2 hours to explore before I had to catch the next bus to the central station. It was a very emotional journey through the grandest of the holocaust museum – as I reflected on all the places I had been to (from Anne Frank’s house 5 years ago in Amsterdam, and my summer European trip to the holocaust museum in Berlin, terror house in Budapest, and Aushwitz). I arrived back in Bucharest, back to Friend’s hostel.

11/28/07 – The weather in Bucharest was beautiful - I checked out of the hostel and headed up to the Peasant museum, before catching the bus to the airport back to NYC.

ROMANIA PHOTO LINK
W MIDDLE EAST PHOTO LINK